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Penny Lane

Submitted by on Saturday, 31 January 2009No Comment

This cliff offers a wide variety of climbs, although cracks predominate. Gain access from a short path heading north off the loop trail directly below Penny Lane (the climb that gives the cliff it’s name). From the east end of the cliff a gully gives access to Ronin’s corner, Fern Gully and Pink Cliff.

There are bolted rappell stations at the top of Quarryman, Up Up and Away and Witch Doctors Apprentice.

  1. Mirage 5.11a
    FA: B. Beard & R. Parker, 1980
  2. Short Walk 5.8 FA: Robin Barley & P. Shackleton, 1981
  3. Whorehorse 5.10c (2pa) FA: Robin Barley, Sept 1989
  4. Clandestine Affair 5.9 FA: Robin Barley & P. Shackleton, 1981
  5. The Yorkshire Gripper 5.11b FA: Peter Croft & Robin Barley, 1981
  6. Knob Hopping 5.11a FA: John Howe & Jim Hegan, Aug 29, 1992
  7. Popeye and the Raven 5.10c FA: Joe Turley & G. Smith, 1981
    Great face climbing, with some technical stemming at the crux. Bring a medium wire for a first piece (the rest is bolted)
  8. Quarryman 5.8 FA: Robin Barley & P. Shackleton, 1981
    Great climbing in the corner, good pro, take the left hand crack to finish, or the direct variation (stright up the thin crack) at 5.10b
  9. Health Hazard 5.10a FA: Robin Barley & D. Cody, 1981
    Face climb up the prow. Adequate pro.
  10. The Last Post 5.11d FA: Kevin McLane, B. Protsch & Joe Turley, May 10, 1986
    Finishes left of Health Hazard
  11. Weenie 5.11c FA: S. Flavelle & J. Howe, July 1984
  12. Short People 5.11a FA: Peter Croft, M. Fish & P. Kinduee, 1980
  13. Jangling Ball Wall 5.11a FA: S. Flavell & Robin Barley, Aug 1984
  14. Foot in Mouth Disease 5.11a, 2 pitches FA: Robin Barley & B. Protsch (1pa), 1981
    FFA: Peter Croft & Robin Barley, 1981
    Belay on the slab above the initial dyke.
  15. Teenage Girls Won’t Blow Gorbies 5.11c FA: E. Hoogstraten & D. Caldwell, 1988
    Exits out right from Foot in Mouth Disease
  16. Up Up and Away 5.9 FA: Tami Knight & Peter Croft, 1978
    Up an easy corner, to the crux 15 feet of crack – layback or stem.
  17. Air Time 5.11c FA: D. Hutchinson & R. Miller, Sept 1 1990
    the thin seam exiting right below the crux of Up Up and Away
  18. Just for Howie 5.8 FA: Robin Barley & Joe Turley, 1981
    Across the right hand face from Up Up and Away
  19. Exsanguinator 5.10b FA: Robin Barley & Joe Turley, 1981
    Up the steep corner left of Witch Doctors Apprentice. It’s actually behind the piece of rock over which the line goes in the picture.
  20. Night Club 5.9 FA: Dave Jones & D. Serl, May 1986
    A good climb in the corner, something for everyone
  21. Power Windows 5.11a FA: Jim Sandford, Nov 10 1985
  22. Crime of the Century 5.11c FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight, 1978
    A Squamish classic, a thin finger crack. Excellent pro.
  23. Shakey the Moyle 5.11c FA: R. Lutie, K. Mortensen & Dale Caldwell, May 9 1994
    Continue up the face from the station on Crime of the Century
  24. Penny Lane 5.9 FA: K. Rajala & C. McCafferty 1975
    FFA: Anders Ourom & J. Arts 1978
    Another Squamish classic, a classic crack climb. Difficult to get good gear in the first 5m. 

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