Mount Arapiles quality crag in Australia
Crag Name: Mt Arapiles
Unique features and Strengths: The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.
State/Territory: Victoria
Distance from State/Territory Capital: 300km west of Melbourne.
Public Transport: Is available, catch the train to Ballarat, bus to Horsham. From Horsham it is easy to hitch a lift or take a feeder bus that runs daily out to Arapiles.
Rock Type/Quality: Hard quartz and Calcite sandstone
Predominant Style of Climbing: All styles, generally technical and varied climbing relying heavily on natural protection, catering to climbers of all standards.. There is very little sport climbing, and a trad rack is
essential.
Camping Tips: The Pines Campground is situated at the base of Arapiles, with water and toilets. Suitable for long and short term camping. More luxurious accommodation can be found in Natimuk i.e. Backpackers or Bed and Breakfast establishments. There is a campground at Lake Natimuk which has showers.
Heading towards Arapiles and starting to see it clearly for the first time, you will not have been alone if you feel a little disappointed. For taken from a distance Arapiles looks like a pile of choss. It is the closer inspection that yields a glimpse of the true magic of Arapiles. For this when Arapiles reveals itself. The beautiful rich golden and gray sandstone, hard and solid. The labyrinth of small gullies and hidden faces, the technical and varied climbing. Added to this is that the true heart of Australian climbing resides at Arapiles and in particular the campground we call The Pines.
One of the greatest qualities Arapiles has, is its appeal to climbers of all
abilities. It must be one of the few crags in the world which offers incredible quality routes at all grades. From the spectacular Tiptoe ridge 3, upwards there is a plethora of beginner to intermediate routes which would be classic anywhere in the world. The rock quality is such that even the easiest routes involve good rock and beautifully formed holds, a rarity at most crags. In the 18-24 range Arapiles is particularly blessed, look in the back of the guidebook and you will see an abundance of routes at this grade which are starred classics. Added to this is the fact that the vast majority of them will be naturally protected on absolutely bomber gear. It is only from grade 25 upwards that bolts start to kick in. Again the routes that are 25+ are incredibly good. Climbing at Arapiles is a mixture of superb rock and technical moves on often steep and spectacular ground. Arapiles is the ideal place to become a more proficient trad climber. Arapiles is also very accessible, there are over 2000 routes all within easy walking distance. One of the greatest things about Arapiles, which draw so many people to it apart from climbing, is the social scene. Arapiles is one of the few, if not the only crag in Australia which supports a strong climbing scene. At popular times of the year the Pines campground can be very crowded, which some people may not like, but it is a good thing, because the atmosphere it creates is very social and friendly. You can turn up without a climbing partner, and be almost guaranteed to meet someone to climb with. There is no other crag in Australia where you can do this, and this quality is one which virtually lasts all year round. It is great for meeting fantastic people from all over the globe. There is so much more to say on this crag, Australia?s premier crag, but that waits for you to discover it.
Best months for climbing: Arapiles is an all year round crag. Summer can be very hot (December to February), Autumn is fantastic (March to May), Winter can be very wet and cold but there will still be plenty of perfect winter days (June to August), Spring can be wet but there are still plenty of good climbing days to be had (September to November).











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