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This cliff is the most
popular in the Bluffs, due to it's proximity to the road, its ease of
top-roping, and the relatively low angle. This popularity is most evident
any fine weekend, when the cliff will be covered in top-ropes. It's a good
place to take beginners, and generally there's a friendly atmosphere at the
base. Unfortunately, it's popularity also causes problems with some of the
residents whose houses are located near the top of the bluff. To try and
prevent further exacerbation of this problem, there is a voluntary climbing
ban here before 8 A.M. and after 6 P.M. Please observe this, in order to
ensure that the cliff remains open in the future.
Most of the route here
have bolt anchors placed just below the cliff top. Please use these rather
than any of the trees.
Pink Panther 5.11c
FA: S. Tooley & S. Bracken, 1979
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Burgers and Fries
5.7
FA: J. Manuel, E. Spat & B. DenHertog, 1980
This climb is a Squamish classic - a relatively easy crack, a quick move
to the left, and some nice face/friction moves to get to the top. Save a
#1.5 Friend for the horizontal seam - it's the last pro on the climb...
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Peaches and Cream
5.10a
FA: Dave Jones & J. St Amand, 1982
I guess it really is only 10a, but it always feels harder to me...
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Dusty Eyes 5.4
FA: K. Rajala & David Harris, 1981
Easy, a good climb for new leaders.
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Frying Brownies
5.10a
FA: P. McKernin & J. Black, Sept 1993
This actually starts a few meters left of where it's marked on the
diagram, it proceeds straight up the face from just left of where the
person is standing. Run out in the middle section.
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Wisecrack 5.7
FA: B. Wiseman, B. Wilson & T. Spurrel, 1980
Up past the tree, and then right following a flake.
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Catch Me 5.10b
FA: Joe Turley & G. Smith, 1980
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Catch Me Quick
5.10b
FA: Joe Turley & G. Smith, 1980
Only one difficult move, at about 4m - a small wire or hex helps
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Over Forty 5.11a
FA: D. Hutchinson & Dave Jones, Aug 1989
I remember thrashing on this (with a top-rope) once. Looks like
ground-fall potential from a bit below the second bolt...
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Catch Me Quicker
5.10c
FA: Joe Turley & G. Smith, 1980
A great climb. Crux is about 3m up, moving into the left leaning seam.
Bolted.
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Movin' On Over
5.8
FA: S. Tooley & J. Beekman, 1981
Another low crux, moving right into the crack from the face.
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Short and Sweet
5.10a
FA: unknown
Fairly short, and not too bad on the sweet stakes - cracks about 3-4m
right of Movin' on Over
.
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