Comic Rocks is the
first climbing area encountered when driving highway 99 from Vancouver.
There are about a dozen single pitch climbs at this crag, most of which
are worth doing. A fine place to stop for a half day. To get to Comic
Rocks, look for a pullout on the east side of the highway, just after a
double lane section (heading north), about 30 km north of Horseshow Bay,
or 12 km south of Squamish. The first two climbs are located at the north
end of the pullout:
1.
Faith
5.9, 15m, Mixed FA: Unknown The left side of the slab, past an old and
manky bolt. Take some small gear!
2.
Hope
5.4, 15m, Natural
FA: Unknown
An easy crack, with a slightly harder start.
The next set of
climbs can be reached by following a trail from the gate in the pullout
for 100m till the crag is seen on the left. A trail leads 12m to the
cliff, meeting it between Vargas Girl and Garfield. Most of the climbs
have bolt anchors,
and are described from left to right:
1. Biffo
The Bear
5.10b, 20m, Natural
FA: Robert Milward & Jim Campbell, June 1983
Start through juggy overhangs, to a more delicate crux through another
bulge
2. Popeye
5.10d, 20m, Natural
FA: Jim Campbell & Robert Milward, June 1983
Follow the crack, finishing as for Biffo The Bear. Sustained.
3. Dennis
The Menace
5.9, 23m, Natural
FA: Jim Campbell & Robert Milward, June 1983
Up the short corner to the left leaning fault. The crux follows shortly,
And can be
deceptively difficult if attacked in the wrong way. Take the left option
above.
