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Comic Rocks is the first climbing area encountered when driving highway 99 from Vancouver. There are about a dozen single pitch climbs at this crag, most of which are worth doing. A fine place to stop for a half day.
To get to Comic Rocks, look for a pullout on the east side of the highway, just after a double lane section (heading north), about 30 km north of Horseshow Bay, or 12 km south of Squamish. The first two climbs are located at the north end of the pullout:
1. Faith 5.9, 15m, Mixed
FA: Unknown
The left side of the slab, past an old and manky bolt. Take some small gear!
2. Hope 5.4, 15m, Natural
FA: Unknown
An easy crack, with a slightly harder start.
The next set of climbs can be reached by following a trail from the gate in the pullout for 100m till the crag is seen on the left. A trail leads 12m to the cliff, meeting it between Vargas Girl and Garfield. Most of the climbs have bolt anchors, and are described from left to right:
1. Biffo The Bear 5.10b, 20m, Natural
FA: Robert Milward & Jim Campbell, June 1983
Start through juggy overhangs, to a more delicate crux through another bulge
2. Popeye 5.10d, 20m, Natural
FA: Jim Campbell & Robert Milward, June 1983
Follow the crack, finishing as for Biffo The Bear. Sustained.
3. Dennis The Menace 5.9, 23m, Natural
FA: Jim Campbell & Robert Milward, June 1983
Up the short corner to the left leaning fault. The crux follows shortly, and can be deceptively difficult if attacked in the wrong way. Take the left option above.
4. Peanuts 5.10c, 45m, Natural
FA: Carl Austrom and others, c. 1978
FFA: Robert Milward & Jim Campbell, May 1983
Up the difficult groove to the large overhang, and then traverse right to a belay anchor. Rappell, or climb through the overhangs above (5.8). Thin and difficult to protect (take some RP's!). A variation goes left at the traverse to the top.
5. Vargas Girl 5.12b, 20m, Mixed
FA: Keith Reid, 1986
The smooth overhanging face past a single bolt. Right through the overhang, then left up a hand crack.
6. Spiderman A3, 20m
FA: Carl Austrom and others, c. 1978
Directly up to the end of the hand traverse on Garfield. Not in current guide.
7. Garfield 5.7, 40m, Natural
FA: Robert Milward & Jim Campbell, June 1983
An excellent and varied climb. Start at the base of the slab, and traverse it left to the flake. Up this, traverse left across it's top, then take the hand/fist crack to the top, finishing through easy overhangs.
8. Broom Hilda 5.8, 20m, Natural
FA: Robert Milward & Jim Campbell, June 1983
Climb the right side of the slab. Very little protection to be had, and seldom done (getting mossy).
9. Clean And Free 5.11a, 10m, Natural
FA: Jim Campbell & Robert Milward, June 1983
FFA: G. Barber & J. Fredericks, June 8 1988
The short crack. originally called Little Lulu before being done free.
10. Li'l Abner 5.11a, 15m, Natural
FA: Robert Milward & Jim Campbell, August 1983
The wide crack.
The last three climbs can be reached by going 100m further along the main trail, where a modest crag can be seen on the left.
1. Desperate Dan 5.10d, 15m, Natural
FA: Robert Milward, Jim Campbell & John Howe, August 1983
FFA: Robert Milward & Jim Campbell, August 1983
Starting on the left side of the crag, climb the large flake above.
2. Rocky And His Friends 5.8, 15m, Natural
FA: John Howe, Robert Milward & Jim Campbell, August 1983
The modest crack in the center of the wall.
3. Rufus 5.11c, 20m, Natural
FA: Jim Campbell & Robert Milward, August 1983
FFA: Dave Lane & Perry Beckham, May 1984
The roof split by the prominent hand crack.
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