Squamishrock

Traffic Course Glacier and Ice Climbing, 

We are signing up for the 14th year. Starts 23/03/2010, consult, cost and location.

Quota: Minimum 5 participants. Maximum 9. 
Value instructor - participant: One to four or one to five were the kind of practice. 
Duration: 9 days. The course of 23/03, according to the number of members can have a duration of 7 days. 
Start: 23/03/2010. 
 15 º F throws course: 00/02/2011 - First days of February, to confirm. 
Cost: See. 
Previous Meeting: 

First year: On 21/03/2010 at 18 pm in place to define - San Carlos de Bariloche - Rio Black. 



Important: 
The course is approved by the Nahuel Huapi National Park. 
The course in the program may vary due to weather or other causes. 
There will be possibly a day in case of failure to develop a course content 
The course does not extend more than one days if the eighth day is not suitable for the summit attempt. 
The course fee includes: 
  Instruction. 
  Personal Accident Insurance, as required by the Administration of the Nahuel Huapi National Park. 
 Liability insurance contracted by the responsible course. 
  Technical manual on the course content developed by the instructors. 
  Course participation certificate. 
 
 
  It includes everything not specified in the preceding paragraph. 
  The participant may choose to employ more services, if available. 

On days and course description: 

Day 1: Departure to Pampa Linda at 8:00 pm. Arrival at the camping area of Glacier Black. Armed Camp. Afternoon: commencement of the course, placement of crampons and walking on glacier ablation zone. Ice technique: the technique of ten and twelve points with and without ax. 

Day 2: Review the previous day. Introduction to ax traction. Review of knots. Security on ice: ice anchors, screw placement, performance of mushrooms. Possibilities of meetings on ice. 

Day 3: Placement and passage of a fixed rope on ice and snow. Rappel in ice and snow. Practice climbing with top rope. March on the Black Glacier glacier. 

Day 4: 09:00 pm, heading to Pampa Linda. Recruitment of horses (optional). Rise to Otto Meiling refuge. Day dedicated to reach the area. 

Day 5: Self-arrest techniques and progression in snow. Brief description of cohesion, metamorphism and likely types of snow avalanche. Anchors in snow and possible meetings. Progression simultaneously or assembly. Search with AGRA. 

Day 6: Progression in glacier: cordate, 3 and 4 people. Glacier forms: types of cracks. Election and traffic ring. Glacier self-arrest techniques. Practice multiple rescue, rescue the first in a roped three (conscious). Practice self-rescue. Other possibilities of rescue. 

Day 7: Possible issues with practical concerns. Afternoon free. 

Day 8: Attempted Argentine Peak ascent and return to the refuge. He clarified that the amount of snow that is falling at this time of year, not being possible to climb to the summit with a margin of safety during this type requires. 

Day 9: Descend to Pampa Linda. End of course. 



Theoretical lectures during the course: 
Guidance, letter, compass and GPS. 
Knots and rigs. 
Glacier forms: types of cracks. 
Specific clothing. 

List of necessary personal equipment: 

General: 
Rucksack 70-80 liters. 
Sleeping bag. 
Mats:. 
Insulation to lay small. 
Bottle to urinate at night. (optional). 
Gloves and spare gloves. 
Rubber or leather gloves (for drift black). 
Cubrepantalón. Anorak. 
Trousers coat. 
Diver polar. 
Average and parts. 
Warm hat. 
Hiking boots or sneakers. 
Headlamp with fresh batteries and spare batteries. 
Lighter. 
Water bottle. 
Penknife. 
Candles. 
Toilet paper. 
Glasses and goggles. 
Sunscreen and lip balm high factor. 
Personal hygiene items. 
Spare underwear. 
Several consortium bags. 
Sticks, (best telescopic). 

Technical: 
Rigid double boots. 
Crampons. (Y porta crampons, plastic bottle suggestion). 
Gaiters. 
Piolet least 1 cruise and ideally two, one cruise of about 65 cm and technically better hammer. 
Waist harness. 
Casco. 
8 hooks with insurance. (Minimum). 
10 carabiners uninsured. (Minimum). 
Descender. 
1 cordin 5.5 mm by three meters. It may be 6 mm if the rope is 9 mm or more. (Ideal kevlar but be careful not to be rigid fibers are combined; have any doubts consult) 
1 cordin 5.5 mm by two meters. It may be 6 mm if the rope is 9 mm or more. Idem previous kevlar clarification. 
1 cordin 5.5 mm by 1.2 to 1.4 meters. It may be 6 mm if the rope is 9 mm or more. Idem previous kevlar clarification. To rappel self-insurance. 
1 snow stake of 60-70 cm and 1 ice screw. 
tubular or sewn tapes 1, 2, 3 meters. (At least 1 of 1m and 2m and 2 3m). 
tape self-insurance (or common daisy or daisy chain). 
1 sheave. 
Backpack 40 to 50 liters. 
Team every two to three people. 
Shovel snow. 
Compass (notebook and pencil). 
Spare glasses. 
1 dynamic climbing rope from 9 to 10.5 mm for use in simple least 50 meters. 
Mountain tent to Otto Meiling Refuge area. Middle mountain tent for Black Glacier area. 
Kitchen equipment. 
Heater. 
Basic kit. 
Optional: AGRA and new batteries 
Chest Harness for your clothing or belt. 
1 jumar or minimasses (Tibloc, ropeman). 
1 plate gi - gi. 

Attire: It is advisable to dress in layers type, the first synthetic breathable type Colmax, Capilene or similar, the second synthetic type Pili Fleace, Polar or similar, and the third breathable Gore-tex, Simpatex, TPC or similar. It is also advisable duvet vest. 

Of course it is always difficult to gather all the equipment. For any questions, please contact by mail and / or telephone. 

The course will ideally the first three days in the Black Glacier area Tronador base and seven miles from Pampa Linda. 

Tent will be required for the three days, need not be a high mountain. 

Ideally, the fourth day we get up to Otto Meiling refuge (trek 15 kilometers). In nearby areas, and Castaño Overo Glacier Frías glacier will continue with the course content. Five nights (excluding any extra day for bad weather and that has not been reached to develop all parts of the course). 

Possibilities of camping and / or stay in the refuge area Meilling: 

The participant may choose to use shelter services Meiling and spending the night, and hire meals, breakfasts and snacks. 

You can also just spend the night and each carry their food, taking in this case to pay a kitchen right when using the kitchen of the shelter. You can choose to carry a camping stove and cooking is allowed outside the shelter. All this can be contracted by the participant prior to the course by contacting the dealer Otto Meiling refuge. 

You can choose to stay overnight in tent near the Otto Meiling refuge, owned by the Club Andino Bariloche. In this case, it is imperative that the tent is of high mountains and capable of withstanding extreme conditions, since in the area can develop severe storms of snow and / or rain and / or wind, or even in high summer month of January as developed the course. No camping charge. The participant can use the services of the shelter above and sleep in tents. There are several possibilities available. 


On the fourth day, you can choose to send any bulk cargo or equipment by pack horses. This is optional, and the expense is shared among stakeholders. The recruitment is done in Pampa Linda. Each horse load about 60 kilos and reach the final of the forest. Hence the shelter, got an hour and a half of walking, (approximately) at normal speed. 

The participant must pay an entrance fee to the Nahuel Huapi National Park when heading to the area from Pampa Linda, Tronador base. 

All garbage shall be lowered to Bariloche. (Exception if services are contracted in the Otto Meiling refuge).