Ice Climbing TECHNICAL GRADE COMPARISON BETWEEN ICE AND ROCK
| TECHNICAL GRADE COMPARISON BETWEEN ICE AND ROCK |
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Here is a rough comparison of technical classifications for rock and ice. The type of ice that can be found on a route designated by the letters AI, indicating ice or glacier skiing (Alpine Ice), or WI, with reference to ice melting (Water Ice), and this classification above the classification technique. When the main difficulties of the route corresponding to a mixed section of rock and ice with crampons to scale, the classification is given by an M (Mixed). The technical difficulty on three routes scheduled WI5, AI5 or M5 is the same, differing only slightly on the physical environment which runs each. If there is a stretch of artificial on rock or ice, is indicated by the A0-5 specification. With this system it is possible to compare the overall difficulty of routes of ice and rock around the world. The table included in the first illustration to the right provides an approximate valuation (and debatable), difficulties relating to free climbing on rock and ice. It is necessary to provide information concerning some routes difficult to protect. If the placement of protection requires a large dose of skill and force to overcome long stretches without insurance (5 to 10m), add an S (for 'Serious') to the standard notation. If it proves impossible to get good protection, even as experienced climbers, and must travel long distances with questionable insurance, then apply the valuation VS ( 'Very Serious'). If there simply is not possible protection and a fall could mean almost certain death, the rating is X. TECHNICAL GRADE COMPARISON BETWEEN DIFFERENT GEOGRAPHICAL AREAS The technical level in the escalation is constantly evolving, it's an inexact science. The intention is to describe both the physical nature of the escalation and the level of experience and commitment required for the climber. The difficulty of the movements, the length, exposure ... all factors are taken into account. Depending on the area have adopted different systems, which are difficult to relate to one another. The grading system for rock UIAA is recognized as a standard, but is supplanted in many places by local graduation. It included two comparative tables, shown in the second and third respectively illustrating the right one for graduation on ice and another for graduation on the rock. |
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