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Starr wall

Submitted by on Saturday, 10 October 2009No Comment

star.jpgThe Highest Tier is a modest chunk of rock at the highest (Northern) point of the Upper Malamute. There are three nondescript routes (all are poorly protected, with no upper anchors) on the Southern slabby face. There are several much better climbs on the face below, including one that promises to be the upper pitch of a 3-4 pitch route from the Railway tracks below…

   

  • Let My People Eat Pasty Lentils 5.7, 10m
  •      Takes the slab and shallow groove on the left.
  •      I Love The Smell Of Nuprin In The Morning 5.8, 10m
  •       Up the left side of the flake
  •      With Friends Like This Who Needs Enemas 5.10a, 10m
  •       Start up the slab (crux) and then take horizontal faults up the center of the flake.
  •      Jacob’s Other Ladder, 5.9, 28m, Natural
  •       Diagonally up a large dyke on the cliff below Highest Tier. A 5.9 starting move leads to easy (5.6) but runout climbing above.
  •      Renaissance, 5.10c, 18m, Fixed
  •       FA: Rolf Rybak, September 1996
  •       From the center of the cliff below Highest Tier, rappell in (2 anchor bolts at top). Thin face and slab moves lead right then left to the top. This is actually the last pitch of 5, coming up from the railway. Take the first pitch of Mirkwood Forest (5.9), go up the face (5.10+), take the blank face above (5.11+), then another face (5.10+) and finally this pitch. The middle pitch hasn’t been redpointed yet, so please leave it for Rolf.
  •      Besot And Flushed, 5.10d, 30m Mixed
  •       Follows a crack and then switches to an arete. Gear to 2" plus bolts. You can get to the base via a single rope rappel from bolts above and east (see topo) or by a double rope rappel from the top of the route.
  •      Featureless Face, 5.11b, 15m, Fixed
  •       FA: Robin Barley, 1997
  •       The bolted line up the wall behind Besot And Flushed. Thin edges leads to smears to finish.
  •      The Shallow End, 5.10b, 10m,Fixed
  •       FA: Glenn Payan, Joe Turley & Mark Bomboia, October 1997
  •       A fun edging route to the left of Featureless Face

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