Robert Jasper, openness in Norway
The German is associated with Markus Stofer, first, and Roger Schäli then to establish two new routes (Fosslimonster and Into the Wild) over 1,000 m in ice and mixed with the M8 and more difficult and WI6.
Markus Stofer, Robert Jasper began, opening February, a trip through the Norwegian mountains, with the obvious intention of finding and if possible to climb some of its icy lines. And they did, but something must not leave happy, missing the real challenge of such titanic walk around the rock and ice: his ambition would turn into setting, opening 1,200 new meters WI6 and X (ice precarious), Into the Wild, and 1,000 with difficulties and WI6 + M8 +, Fosslimonster.
Being objective, we can not say that their intentions were new. They were long, particularly since in 1999 Robert Jasper knew the big icefall that spring in the fjords of Gudvangen (in the Aurland area), "probably" the longest in the world. These, to mention one more objection to such a crazy adventure known, is near the sea, so that their conditions are never the best suited for climbing. But when you get up there are no concessions should be willing to take, sometimes find the reward. "The extreme temperatures of this winter (below 30 degrees below zero) it froze everything in Norway. This was the opportunity. This was what we were expecting."
With Into the Wild, name under which it pays homage to the celebrated novel by Jon Krakauer (recently made into a film by Sean Penn), and its 1,300 meters, roped opens one of the longest ice routes and exhausting the planet, second only , we know, by the savagery of Eiliv Ruud and Nils Nielsen, who opened 1,400 meters above Oliskardstind Norwegian, with vertical 90 degrees.
After 900 meters of vertical drop of over Into the wild, their axes would lead to more difficult routes and smaller. His next stop was in Eidfjord which carried 180 meters Voringfossen classics, and a little further south in Måbødalen, returned to using your imagination to open Landplage, 240 meters WI7, "a fantastic line of mixed on icicles hanging ".
A monster of mixed
Naeroydalen return to climbing "the most impressive waterfall in the valley, a route that at first glance nothing more than a spaghetti ice, but that in his opinion seemed to culminate scalable and defined as" the longest route in the world style "Fosslimonster. "To explore, we tested the first 300 meters. The ice was hard enough, but enough to try." In attempt fell, pressed dates … and had to change the return ticket home, to win a couple of days waiting to be insufficient for a final stake. "The Joint Long took us much longer than desired, temperatures were worsening the ice" and after overcoming two thirds of the wall, and two long in total darkness, retired. Fosslimonster "had won". For now.
After returning home, participate in any competition and deserved to take the rest of the warrior, Robert Jasper met with his Swiss friend Roger Schaeli. "I had to climb the dream, perhaps the wildest ice path of my life," explains Robert. Back in Norway, Robert and Roger were face to face with other difficulties that nearly led to fret ascension. His team stayed on the road, Netherlands lands lost during flight, apart from seeing his life pass in slide format and speed of reactor when a crazy driver almost takes them ahead. "Finally … we Gudvangen and the next morning at 4 am, we started very motivated Fosslimonster escalating. The temperatures were around 0 ° degrees in the growing daylight shining that light on big occasions and 1,000 meters stood hardship, which condemns and which magnet, on its front. Difficulties: M8 +, WI6 + and 800 mts can awaken the best and worst of man. In this case the best, because it overcomes the monstrous obstacle (not what we say, but the name of the route). "For me," concludes Jasper, the most wonderful combination of modern ice and mixed with an adventure at all levels.
Capriciously, the next day, the line of ice began to unravel. Being in the right place and time is a virtue. Robert Japer do is an art.
Routes
Area: Norway, Aurland, Gudvangen
Valle: Naeroydalen
Into the wild: WI6, X, E5, 900 vertical meters, roughly 1,300 of climbing. 1st ascent, a hearing on February 3 by Robert Jasper and Markus Stofer.
Location: from Gudvangen, up the valley Naeroydalen, you can distinguish the line to the left of the valley.
Equipment: ice climbing equipment and a 60-meter rope to abseil.
Fosslimonster: M8 +, WI6 +, E5, 800 mts, about 1000 meters of climbing. 1st ascent, rotpunkt, on February 19 by Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli two days after previous attempts by R. Jasper and M. Stofer.
Location: from Gudvangen, up the valley Naeroydalen, you can distinguish the line to the left of the valley near the road to NASEN.
Equipment: ice climbing equipment and a 60-meter rope to abseil. Friends 0.5-2.5 and 3.5.












Leave your response!