| Pierre Beghin, Commitment Himalayan |
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The kick-off to a brilliant and meteoric career in the Himalayas begins without much fortune in 1974 with an attempt to Uli Biaho and an attempt on the eastern edge of Manaslu in 1977 leaving with severe frostbite after reaching 7560 meters of height. Still recovering satisfactorily and in 1978 in alpine style stands the imposing north face of Huascaran. This bold ascent and climbing in the Alps open the doors to the powerful and gigantic retreating French expeditions in the "Magic Line" of K2 in 1979 and Dhaulagiri difficult southwestern pillar a year later. In 1981 returns to Manaslu and with his friend Bernard Müller semi alpine style opens a new variant on the west side with a bivouac at 7,400 meters altitude. The following year, 1982, attempted without success on Jannu. In 1983, he married his companion, a geographer and natural guard dels Ecrins National Park and settled in Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, a town nestled in the natural park of Chartreuse near Grenoble city where between dispatch and expedition worked as an engineer. That same year she traveled back to the high peaks of the Himalayas and gets lonely at first colossus Kangchenjunga via original and one year later, in autumn 1984 in alpine style is awarded to the first pillar south of Dhaulagiri pursued by the ill-fated Jean-Noël Roche on one of the most difficult climbs conducted until that time in the Himalayas. In 1985 the first attempt the north face of Everest, reaching the 8,200 meters with his wife. In August 1986 trying to pump your spine back to the top of the world with the Swiss Troillet and Loretan to climb the north face immense but unable to keep pace with the Swiss locomotive turns to 8,000 meters during descent face a bivouac without equipment from which it emerges miraculously without frostbite. But far from being discouraged in October of that year retry the South Col with Eric Escoffier and his wife, but again the weather stopped them 8,200 meters. The next year, do not desist, and yet again try Everest with an expedition tracing a Spanish variant of the corridor to the left of the Japanese but the large amount of fresh snow on top of the western ridge away from achieving it the top and with Fernando Garrido (Luis Barcenas, Luis Fraga retreated to 8400) must be turned over to 8700 meters of altitude. Everest is and will remain its unfinished business. In October 1987, with compatriot Eric Decamp, finally achieved the summit of Jannu (7,710 meters) in light style after his impressive climbing wall and difficult north on route 7 days Japanese in return. During 1988, trying unsuccessfully for the northern slope K2 but a year later, on 6 October 1989, reached a solo alpine style and the summit of Makalu (8475 meters) after partially opening a new route on the south side. This enormous success encouraged him to try unsuccessfully Lhotse South Christophe Profit but redeems this failure a year later crowned the summit of K2 Profit in style with light and a partially new route which runs along the ridge, was her third attempt to Chogori. "An escalation perfect for an imperfect world" said of his summer on K2. Looking ahead to a gradual withdrawal from the frontline, in 1992 Pierre Beghin postmonzón part towards the south face of Annapurna for Jean Christophe Lafaille to try a new route to the right of the British route. Carrying in their packs everything you need for climbing Beghin and Jean-Christophe Lafaille are interned at night on the wall and having overcome, in two days of climbing, the first 1,500 meters of vertical drop, the third day reached a delicate rock band that they requires a long day of climbing and requires them to spend a night hanging from their harness to 7.300 meters of altitude. Amid a highly sensitive area, a day after reaching the 7,500 meters and when it appears that technical difficulties coming to an end the weather changes rapidly and a strong atmospheric depression catches the two Frenchmen on the wall and have to take hasty withdrawal . Cloudy in the fatigue and the need to descend quickly, altitude 7200 Pierre Beghin placed a single, small "friend" unprotected in a deep fissure and involved in the blizzard began to abseil when suddenly, after 10 meters of descent, the Himalayan rock shows brittle anchorage and in the eyes agonist Lafaille, Pierre Beghin suddenly disappears into nothing added to the list of climbers who have lost their lives in that great wall. He was 41 years old. |
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Pierre Beghin (1951-1992 †), the oldest of three siblings, was born on 6 April 1951 in the Netherlands city of Rotterdam where his father, a mechanical engineer, repaired the damaged barge during World War II. At age 8 Pierre Beghin returns with his family in Meudon, France and at the age of 12 discovers the escalation in the gray blocks of Fontainebleau, a famous bouldering area just south of the French capital. At 16 is attached to mountaineering and quickly climb fervently devoted practically all of the most difficult and famous walls of the Alps, Angle, Verte, Court, Freney, ... and has been collecting and lonely winter the more difficult and demanding better , "Devi / Gervasutti" (MD, 1050 m, IV / V) in the north western side of l'Ailefroide (Ecrins) (first lonely winter), Pilar Boccalate of Mt.Blanc du Tacul, north face of the Pic Sans Nom after five days of climbing, "Demaison" to Pic de Bure (Dévoluy) ...