Join Chauvin Guides International this summer for a week of alpine rock climbing in the Sawtooth Ridge area of the Sierra Nevada range in California. CGI has obtained access to a permit to climb in this dramatic section of the Sierras. This area has long been known for its good rock, breathtaking knife edge ridges, and spectacular spires. We plan to climb several of the classic alpine rock routes for which this area is known. One of our goals on this trip will be to climb the tallest peak in the area, Matterhorn Peak (12,264 ft.). This peak can be climbed by several excellent routes including the North Arete, one of our objectives. This alpine rock route is rated 5.6. It’s an excellent introduction to longer, alpine-like climbs and it offers us something we don’t get to do much of in the East. That is, the chance to reach a summit which can only be reached through technical means. Anyone who has climbed the Whitney-Gilman Ridge on Canon Cliff will have gotten a small taste of what this sort of ridge climbing is all about.


 

The Sawtooth Ridge area is located near the small town of Bridgeport on Highway 395. The trip begins with some beautiful high Sierra backcountry hiking at the trailhead at Twin Lakes. We follow a trail up into Horse Creek Canyon and camp at the base of a small glacier coming down from the North Arete. Because our goal is the completion of several alpine rock climbs and not just to go hiking or camping, you’ll learn how to adhere to the "light is right" philosophy of packing. You may be surprised at how small our packs will be for this multi-day climbing trip. The climbing begins in earnest on the second day with an ascent of Matterhorn Peak. The North Arete route begins with a climb into the spectacular couloir which lies to the east of the arete. The use of an ice axe and crampons will probably be required, giving us Easterners the chance for a little alpine climbing without having to endure the sort of harsh weather we usually do during our winter alpine season on Mount Washington. Then it’s a traverse back to the right to get onto the main part of the ridge followed by a long moderate climb on high-quality rock, directly to the summit. The technical descent (Class 3) follows a series of ledges down from the summit to a notch in the crest of the Sawtooth Ridge. A steep couloir is then followed to glacier down below. Depending on route conditions, weather, and our skill and fitness levels, we have a number of options for further ascents before we head back down to civilization.

This trip is an excellent opportunity for intermediate or more advanced climbers to expand their climbing experience from cragging to climbing in bigger alpine terrain using alpine techniques. Anyone who is interested in someday climbing longer routes in the alpine ranges of the world would find this to be an excellent introduction to this type of climbing. Matterhorn Peak and the Sawtooth Ridge area doesn’t just provide a setting for some of the most spectacular climbing you’ll ever do, it provides an almost perfect venue for a climber’s first steps into the alpine arena.