Juanito Oiarzabal Interview
The dense fog and strong wind gusts made yesterday Sierra Nevada into an inferno. Hundreds of skiers had to be turned resigned to the inevitable decision by Cetursa, not to open the season. But bad weather conditions failed to Juanito Oiarzabal, found these days in Sierra Nevada preparing to challenge that can make it the only human being able to climb twice fourteen "eight-thousands’ of the planet.
"With 53 years, many people think of retirement, but you just keep on the ball, but is way to mark a milestone in the history of mountaineering.
"This is something that not look at at first, I’m still connected to the mountains because my passion and my lifestyle. What happens is that I gradually accumulating ascents and I realized I could get a goal like this. I’m very motivated.
"With Armstrong’s return to cycling and Schumacher to Formula 1, it seems that old rockers never pass fashion.
- (Laughs) I do not know, the difference is that I have not come back because I never left. I started as a child in this mountain and to this day. What I do agree with Armstrong and Schumacher is a passion for the sport that has marked our lives. For me the mountain is very special and I will not disengage.
- When plans to complete the 7 climbs he has left?
"The schedule has changed a little because I could not reach the summit of Sish Pangma this year. We reached the central summit, but had to leave late. In 2010 is expected to do the Manaslu (8,126 m), Annapurna (8,091 m) and Nanga Parbat (8,127 m). 2011 will be the year of Dhaulagiri (8,172 m), Shisha Pangma (8,027 m) and Broad Peak (8,047 m). The challenge would be completed in spring 2013 with the ascent of Lhotse (8,511).
"Once passed, the K2 and Makalu, it seems that the worst has passed.
"No doubt, these two mountains are very dangerous, but should not be relied mountaineering ever. Besides, I’m doing the climbs through the alternate route, not at the routes on which I did last time.
- Why Sierra Nevada to prepare?
"This is an extraordinary season. There is good height to train and is very close to the city. I was here last year and really enjoyed so I decided to return. Furthermore, there is much love for the mountains, people turn to me and I feel at home.
- What really happened in that dramatic descent of K2 in which nearly took his life?
"There was me and feet frozen corneas, leaving me completely blind. A few meters from base camp and I was just not see anything. After resting a few minutes, I decided to come and go, but saw nothing as I passed the field, so nobody was. They were dramatic moments I’ve learned a lot. Above all, I learned you need to know to go back on the right time. Physically I felt ill and had to be turned around, but I did not.
"The mountain does not usually give second chances
"I always give the example of cycling, the hardness can live up mountaineering. The difference is that if you’re sick, you can always pick up the team’s coach. Here, if you’re sick you have to download on your own from 8,000 feet. You can not make mistakes.













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