Ice Climbing Hielo extremo en Austria
| Hielo extremo en Austria |
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The cold wave that has swept Europe these weeks has favored the formation of good ice around the continent.Las conditions are optimal in many places and roped formed by the Austrian mountain guides and Benedikt Purner Leicester Albert went to check the area of Goldstein. For there are two waterfalls amounted classic: Supervisory (270 m, WI6) and Superdense Direkt (200 m, WI5). But his attention was caught by a blank line next to the so-called Land Under (WI7). Hans local Cascade Zlobl confirmed that this line had not been climbed by anyone. He himself confessed that he often fixed on it, although I had seen virtually unsalable. the first-and only to the moment-to ascend Land Under, in 1998.  Purner Leichtfried and got down to work on 7 January. The first tranche (W6 +) corresponded to Benedikt Purner, who had to apply all the creativity that was able to provide minimal protection. The next section (WI7 +) went to Albert Leichtfried, who suffered a huge psychological wear over time and liberals mean by a thin layer of ice, often separate from the rock. A short section collapsed and almost completely devoid of ice seemed to make it impossible to climb, but managed to solve Leichtfried step and move on. The tension was enormous and the danger of falling long and serious consequences, real, until he finally put a good nail. The last stretch of WI6 and WI5 not a problem for Purner, and both managed to gain Centercourt (WI7 +), a work of great magnitude. For Leichtfried, it is "incredible line with some tremendous challenges." "It is complicated to a degree, especially when you enter a different realm," he says, adding that "what is clear is that this is the hardest thing I've climbed on the ice, I can not imagine that there is another route that requires more technical skill is. His thoughts go even further: "Physically, my forearms felt like they're climbing M8 / 9, but the dams were placed on ice. Psychologically, it was as if he were climbing in itself. Even the slightest failure would result in a fall, and a fall in the wrong spot would have been very long. " Leichtfried Centercourt compared with his other WI7 + Trail Real, opened in Cerro Marmolejo (Chile) to 4,500 meters. "Although it is harder physically, psychologically it is significantly easier, and generally acknowledge that Royal Trail is easier than Centercourt" he said. |
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