Guido Machette, a revolutionary alpine style
Machette Guido was born in Biella (Italy) on 28 May 1937. After a childhood in which he was not related to the mountain, he discovers at age 17 to begin work helping a friend at the shelter Coda di Carisey, and that started his passion. The life of the mountain and it was very difficult in those days, late 50s. After military service, passed by the paratroopers alpine again become a dreamer and adventure, starting his first major climbs. It was a mountain guide and ski monitor, and conducted high-level climbing and replays of classic in this period in record time: the Great Mall Walker Jorasses (27/8/62) with Giorgio Bertone in 13 hours!; Opening of new road with fellow Biella (Coda, Pivano, Ratto, D, Riva, Taiana Zappa) at Punta des Hirondelles (7 / 62).
In 1963 begins with its expeditionary activities, by 10 expeditions until his death in 1976. With his companions left the CAI of Biella to the Cordillera Urubamba in Peru, making several first ascents of 5000m peaks., Including Terijuay (5380m.). In 1966 traveling with Ragni Lecco (Mauri, Ferrari, etc) to Tierra del Fuego and made the 1st ascent of Mount Buckland (1900m.).
Machette 1967 will go to the Hindu Raj, where with CA Pinelli (Saraghrar) amounted to Gokan Sar (6145m) and goes to the Karakorum in 1969 making a brave attempt to K6 (7281m), which arrived near the Antécime to 7050m.
But, meanwhile, has not forgotten its business continues to perform opening Alpine and winter in Alps: In January 68 with GP Motti held the 1st winter del Pilar NO (Bernezat-Collomb) in the Tour Ronde and January 69 the 2nd Face winter with the Breithorn NO Carmelo di Pietro.
It is from 70 to Machette turns to form a "group" to do the hardest businesses in and outside Europe Alps; all 70 starts in January with the 1st Winter Face of Grivola NO, with A . Gogna, G. Calcagno, C. di Pietro, L. Cerruti and himself. In summer open on the South Face of Matterhorn Peak Spigolo dei fiori Muzio (Calcagno, Cerruti, Di Pietro and him) and the South dihedral Tour des Jorasses (Calcagno, Cerruti and him), pathways that have become classics of difficulty and prestige.
In February 71 carried out the intent of the comprehensive winter peuterey who came closest to reaching peak, until the ascension of 72 (Seigneur, Audoubert, etc.), reaching Pilier d’Angle, to be rescued from the col of peuterey (Gogna, Calcagno, G. German and him). In 72 opened up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses, in 3 days (Gogna and him) and the West Face of Mount Gruetter (di Pietro and him).
In 1971 participated in an expedition of CAI from Biella to Hindu-Kush, making the 2nd ascent of Udren Zom (7131m.). With the "group" and after this great preparation in 73 made an attempt on the NW ridge of Annapurna (8091m.). An avalanche killed M. Rava and L. Cerruti, after that some wanted to leave and others (including Calcagno, di Pietro and Machette) which caused the breakup of the group and the enmity between them. It is also where the idea of mature alpine style, the "by fair means" of the British: "A small group self-sufficient, quick and determined, especially homogenous. "Having participated in several expeditions in which no one takes into consideration the question of relationships, I decided it was pointless to keep fighting against ignorant and conservative and it was time to approach the great mountains without using tape support individuals and self-administered using the technique in short a "command".
So it was in 1974 returns to the Hindu Kush and made with Beppe Re the 1st ascent of the West Tirich II (7500m.) and the 3rd of Tirich West III (7450m.). Had done together several outlets in the Alps, including the southern peuterey aiguille noire, and the rise of udren zom in 71. For his next dream, the spur west of Tirich Mir (7708m.), contact Calcagno, who knew the group and of annapurna, and implement the use of specific training for the company that had been proposed. Were prepared physically, mainly in alpine climbing together for a month and dropped weight. In 18 days climbed the NW face of the Grivola, Aiguille de Bionassay north, North Courtes, North Tour Ronde, Aiguille Blanche and North peuterey edge. Guido was 38 years old and at the peak of his physical and mental. He had also found his ideal mate. They made the Czech road 67 to the top of Tirich Mir as "training" to do after the "way of the Italians."
After two successful expeditions Guido ultralight and was happy again and again to dream of new climbs. His new dream was Cayesh in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. In the summer of ’76 were much climbing up a weekend in July calcagno Gianni could not release their work commitments. Guido was in the shelter with a young torino Biella and left the Tour Ronde (Bernezat ram) where they died by fall.
Machette myth became an Italian mountaineering. He was a rough and uncomfortable by the way they think and act for those who clung to the practice and did not want the changes that the times contributed to how to address the climbing expedition. If in 75 Messner and Habeler had not done the Hidden Peak in alpine style and media impact that had the same, sure that his ascension to dual Tirich had had much wider distribution.
Machette Guido was a key figure in the Italian mountaineering transition to modernity and therefore will always be remembered.












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