Ice Climbing Grading systems climbing route
| Grading systems climbing route |
|
|
|
This article find the most comprehensive reference for interpreting and understanding the profiles of rock and ice routes. We also offer a useful table of equivalence between the grading systems in different parts of the world. 'We all know that classifying a route has a significant degree of subjectivity. Who has not heard or ever said that in a certain area of escalation 'the degree is very high' or a certain way 'is a very easy 6b'. The human being has endeavored, and much, to obtain a grading scale to define as objectively as possible each route, and not only its technical complexity: its difficulty also influence the land on which it develops, exposure, etc. . Thus, rankings have been achieved with a high level of detail but which are sometimes difficult to interpret. This article aims to clarify the meaning of the symbols used in most common scales for the process of ice and rock, as well as provide a table of equivalence between the graduation used in different geographical areas. GRADUATION SYSTEM 'TO DOUBLE SCALE' Within this section are listed the rankings used in ice climbing, based on the double scale: a grade is assigned to the technical difficulty and a degree of compromise or exposure. To collect these data, we have relied on a scale used by many climbers open Canadians, Americans and especially French. The degree of commitment It takes into account the following factors: the gap, the continuity of the difficulty, the distance from the base, the descent, the character, continuity, equipment in the itinerary, and the objective dangers (crevasses, cornices, etc). Graduation: I Itinerary short, slightly remote, easy descent. II Itinerary longer certain objective dangers, descent easier. Along Route III. Partly objective dangers of the ascent, descent delicate. Route IV amplitude in need of good experience in mountaineering. Risk objectives during the climb and the approach. Long and difficult descent approximation. Along Route V in a big wall route delicate and exposed to objective dangers in the rise and on approach. Removing hard way not equipped, fall hard. The cordate must possess an excellent level of competition. VI Itinerary located on a large wall that can be climbed on the day only the best cordate. May present logistical problems for winter climbing. Objective dangers of avalanches, crevasses, etc.. World away. Sensitive approach and descent. VII grade VI characteristics but with an amplitude and continuity that the way justify such an additional degree. The Technical Grade With this degree cotaremos the most important challenge, the harder long. We use the symbols + - to specific findings. Graduation: Route F will not submit easily to technical difficulties Itinerary PD bit difficult, need a good use of crampons, an ice ax and rope to ensure cordate. AD itinerary used parts with slopes (45 º - 50 º) Route F to present a sustained slope straight sections (50th - 60th) and need a safe and a good knowledge of security techniques. 1 Itinerary will present long passages of 60 °. 2 Itinerary will present passages (60 ° - 70 °) but with good potential for sure. 3 Itinerary will present passages (70 º - 80 º) are generally in good ice. Areas of good alternative right of assembly sites will put good insurance. Route 4 will present passages (75 º - 85 º) and possibly a short vertical section. Ice generally good allowing good meetings. Route 5 will present a long sustained a section (85 º - 90 º). You will need a good technical level. Route 6 will present one or more very long sustained with little or no rest point. You will need a high technical level. The quality of the ice may not be the best, and insurance, which will eventually be random. 7 A large or several of helo extremely vertical or collapsed, very fine or thin and mediocre. Protection difficult or impossible. Reserved for experts. Exceptionally Routes To refer to some type of unusual conditions: ice weak, fragile structure and mixed-use three capital letters as symbols. X Risk of collapse of a very fragile structure. R ice climbing with sections of very small, very thin sections. M Climbing with frequent mixed sections. This additional information is provided depending on the conditions encountered by the opening of new routes difficult. |
| < Prev | Next > |
|---|