Squamishrock

Almost all of the climbs at Squamish may be climbed with a standard rack of nuts and cams to about 2.5”. Any climbs requiring larger gear will be mentioned in the guidebooks. Although it is quite possible to have a good Squamish climbing trip clipping only bolts at one of the various sport crags, the true Squamish experience involves placing gear. Some of the older routes still have a few rusty fixed pitons for protection. For the aid routes, bring lots of iron including a number of hooks, as well as heads and perhaps a few rivet hangers. If you need to buy gear, there are a couple small shops in downtown Squamish, as well as a number in Vancouver.

 Don’t leave garbage at any of the crags. As the climber density increases, the base areas of some of the popular routes are becoming increasingly littered.  Avoid hogging a crag. Don’t invite 20 of your closest friends to top rope a route you have set up, or leave ropes on routes you are not climbing. Better yet, lead the route instead of top-roping, so as to avoid rock fall (more important at the sport crags further north). If you must bring your dog to the crag, please keep him under control. In the parks, dogs must be kept on a leash except on the backside trail.  Squamish has evolved as a traditional climbing area. When establishing a new route, do not place bolts if natural protection is possible. Mixed routes are quite common. On the same token, never add bolts to an existing route, and do not chip holds. Chippers and retro-bolters may be lynched on sight.  Before establishing a new route, especially a bolted route, think about the impact it will have on existing routes in the area. Is the route really worth it? A line of shiny bolts right next to that classic runout or that perfect hand crack will take more away from the classic than it will add to the crag