Squamishrock

The young Basque climber Erlantz Diaz (22) has just recorded the first iteration of the proposed mixed hardest Spain: A day of rage S1 (first exit), in the Pyrenees valley of Pineta.

The route, about 30 m and open by Jose Romay, was chained by Dani Andrada this winter in one of his early days as "drytoolero. Dani had chained the neighboring Brutal Fang (M12) and thought that a day of rage, to the first exit (S1), was more difficult: M13. Just weeks earlier, also chained Erlantz Brutal Fang and tested the unresolved rage one day, "to see how it could be the theme for next season, knowing it could be a very long term project in that it spoke of a M14 possible ", writes Erlantz. "The issue became even worse when they got to see one of the steps that need to half-track and had to get out without many expectations."  

The news of Dani chaining to a day of rage encouraged the Basque: "After looking at the magazine Dani Andrada Slope in the pathway and its proposal to a first exit which made M13 and I decided to try again, taking advantage of coming from France vacation, I stopped to give him a couple of hit to be qualifying for the winter (no need ice because it is completely dry). To my surprise I managed to solve the first step to paste and then looking at me the output, which in my case I use the lanyard, I got hit the second chain. In total, three hit half way up a couple of months and two the other day.

We have used that Erlantz was "on line" to ask him some questions.

Did you try to S2, A day of rage?
That for this coming winter, along with many other projects I have in places like Dryland or Diebsofen. 
Now for the moment to continue climbing a rocky couple of months to stay motivated to train with the lanyards all winter.

What do you think that some intend to graduate with a D, not F, dry tooling routes that do not have any ice? 
I have not much idea of this since I started last winter to give the lanyard, so you have to ignore those who have more years for this. Anyway, from what I have seen this year, a number of reference tracks that are completely dry and have the graduation M, especially in the case of the hard way, as most go on large roofs or crashes so they have virtually ice. There are many others where there is usually ice, especially at the start, in the final meters, but depending on the time of the season in which we are also totally dry, scaled, keeping the M for graduation.

What you have done degree in rock?
 
If you compare a day of road rage with a rock, what would you say that it is difficult: 8b, 8c ...? 
For despite having none chained, yes I have tested some 8c, and the level of effort could be the equivalent of an 8c. But that if you have mastered the technique with the lanyard, as without handling and other movements yanire thing could shoot a lot.


How do you train the dry tooling?

The truth is that I have not followed any special training because they do not have much idea about it, so I've more or less the same as for climbing: when I go to the panel and always train to death a few days with cool and others without them, depending on the motivation of every day. While many tell me that is not the best way to improve, it's like I enjoy most. Let's see if I train for next season a little better.

Want to add something?
The track was equipped by Jose Romay, who is to be congratulated and thank you for the corral as it is one of the best and most spectacular lines I've seen so far.