Ice Climbing Erlantz Diaz, Brutal Fang to start
| Erlantz Diaz, Brutal Fang to start |
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 In just four months, the cat's feet have fallen into disuse, and the axes have become indispensable. So were the first weeks of this 2009 to Erlantz Diaz, 22, a climber who discovered him at the beginning of the year, waterfalls, and other charms yanire drytoolers, resulting in the concatenation of the toughest route Peninsula (in the form of mixed sports, of course): Brutal Fang, the first M12 / + Iberico (D12 scale if dry). As meteoric increase is undoubtedly the best way to find motivation in an activity, and Erlantz does not, for now, much intention of hanging dust iceaxes cats. Brutal Fang, 160 meters and shape which is probably the best waterfall in the valley of Pineta. Elegant, demanding and engaged. Opened originally by Xavier Teixido and Albert Salvado in January 2005 by avoiding the cave entrance to access the ice longer, the line that same day would be reviewed by Chiro Sanchez, Oscar Cacho, Javier Bueno, who added a direct entry by the cave, leaving time through repetition of this amazing free ice column. And it would be three years. In January 2008, Jose Romay managed to free the first along the route (the next two had collapsed), proposing the current level of M12 / +, which would confirm Dani Andrada and Luis Penín this year. After the third repetition, Brutal Fang is the quantum leap to Erlantz Diaz in this his first steps on the radical mixed. What never ceases to sound strange. We wanted to chat with Erlantz, perhaps to discover the secret of his success coming in the world drytooler, or simply because it is always worthwhile to those who do know the mysteries of the mountain something "almost" simple. To place, when, where and how did you start climbing? Since very small I have always gone far up the mountain, in Pyrenees and Picos de Europa but in 2004 and due to go to the mountain each time involved in making things harder I began to climb, until early 2006 but climbed only a couple of times a month, and playing soccer and there was no time for much else. Since then I stopped playing football and to this day ... I chained 8b + in the process, 8a and 8a + block crossing. What attracts you ice? I could not say what I like ice and drytooling; only since I tried this four months ago or so, I have not put my cats more than to go through the panel one day weekdays; because all weekend I could I got away with lanyards. How so little time practicing the discipline can be chained one of the toughest projects in the country (if not harder)? Then with great enthusiasm, some luck at having already proven that at first we went to ice climbing, but there was virtually no trained and we came to test the track. And of course, with some training. " What other activities do you practice? Besides climbing, occasionally we tend to go do some running, skiing and ice last year and drytooling. What can you say about Brutal Fang? How did you find the line conditions? What about your degree? On the way we might say that is heading for a good rest in the middle, the first part is about 15 feet above a wall collapsed on song with good closed rather small, and after another 6 or 7 meters on a flat roof you will come upon yanire base with his arms about to burst. When I tested had virtually no ice because the two long superiors were not formed and the little ice is usually formed at the end of the roof appeared to have fallen. On the extent I have no idea because it is one of the first ways that chains, so it's best to let them say those who know most of these issues. What is the best and worst of a climb like this? The best thing to have done, no doubt, joy and surprise to take me to the chain as fast. On the downside ... I believe there is nothing wrong, as far back 5 hours remaining until home. What models have followed or inspire you? Apart from all the machines that run around loose, the people I'm usually because in the end are the ones I motivated to continue climbing to death. In this case as Juanillo Zanasis, Ruben ... And books? I do not usually read much because with the career books (Industrial Engineering) have more than sufficient, although occasionally flip through a magazine and soil to see how things are. What are your plans now? In time and with the arrival of good weather to get strong rock climbing .... so long climb, not the thing I like anger, and then hopefully I can prepare in advance a little trip to Austria and Switzerland before the end of the year to try some ways of this style I have in my head. |
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