That said, sandstone climbing is not for everyone. Few tower routes are
easier than 5.10 and the rock is soft and can resemble dried mud. The continuous
parallel cracks require unfamiliar strenuous techniques; and you have to borrow
gear from all your friends to find a rack big enough to climb safely. To get
psyched for your trip to the desert, read Joe Puryear’s ultimate desert road
trip story.

Desert Towers Climbing Skills

 Most of these towers are on Wingate sandstone. This rock is solid, for
sandstone, but still potentially hazardous. Don’t pull out on flakes, especially
if it has rained or snowed recently. It is best to wait a day after a storm as
the rock is weaker when wet. Watch for loose blocks in cracks and on ledges.
Face holds may be rounded or sandy, and take some getting used to. Solid crack
climbing skills are necessary. The cracks are generally vertical, have poor
rests, and few face holds. The leader needs extra endurance to hang out in
strenuous positions in order to place gear at least every 6 feet. Most climbers
use athletic tape to protect their hands from abrasion.

Gear and Equipment

Sandstone cracks are mostly parallel-sided, which means they accept cams
and often reject nuts and hexes. Although it’s tempting to run it out to save
strength, protection has been known to pull out of this rock, even from textbook
placements. Be conservative, and borrow or buy enough gear so you can protect
adequately. A basic tower rack is two-three sets of cams, from sub-finger to
fist size, a set of wired nuts, and many slings. Each Super Topo notes where
other gear is needed. Two 50-meter or 60-meter ropes are standard for rappels.
Always back up every anchor, including bolted anchors. While most of the classic
desert climbs have good bolts, there is no such thing as an absolutely bomber
bolt or cam in sandstone. Be cautious.