| Climbing, February 1999- American Guiding: Buyer Beware |
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February 1, 1999 issue, perspective article, American Guiding: Buyer Beware- This article is written by Craig Luebben, an AMGA certified rock guide working in the West. The article discusses certification and access issues currently facing the American mountain guiding community. "In the United States, the term guide can mean many things. On one end of the spectrum, guiding is simply taking people climbing-a fun way to earn some cash before moving on to a real job. The current conditions for guiding in the United States-with difficult access to public lands, low pay, minimal training by many guide services, and lack of solidarity in a guides association-encourages this "summer-job" view."  He goes on to say later, "... I learned that if I wanted to be top-notch, I would have to approach the work as a profession. As a result, I entered the AMGA rock-guide certification program in 1991. Through the process of certification I learned things about the complex profession of guiding that I didn't know existed. A professional guide needs to be well versed in both the soft skills-leadership, judgment, client care, psychology, environmental awareness, and teaching-and the hard skills: climbing, safety systems, rope management, mountain navigation, self rescue, and emergency care." He closes the article by saying, "A large number of top American guides are not certified. Some feel that they have nothing to learn. One guide said, "No one in the AMGA is qualified to certify me." ... As for the premier guide services, they can count on their proven track records, and may not feel they need outside certification. Some guide services oppose the AMGA and certification because the AMGA's attempts to improve guiding access threaten their hold on permits. ...Yet in the end I believe in the benefits of national certification. Certification requires even accomplished guides to take learning roles and improve their skills. It exposes guides to new techniques and perspectives, and should ultimately raise their pay level. It should ease land manager concerns and liability issues, and increase safety standards of both guides and, ultimately, recreational climbers. Certification informs the public that a guide is safe and solid in practice, and accountable to a larger body. Certification is standard fare in most professions. Doctors, nurses, engineers, massage therapists, and even hairdressers must be certified before they can practice their trade. Why should we be exempt?... The days should be numbered when any Joe Schmo can hang out a shingle saying "guide." |
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