Basic hand grips
Hands and arms are what keep the climber balanced. They help in moving up the wall only a little – the main power for upward movement comes from the legs and
feet. No two climbing holds are ever the same – so each hold is gripped in a
slightly different way. The most common hold is the cling hold, or edge. For a horizontally running hold with a normal downward pull, there are two basic
grips: the crimp grip, and the open hand grip
The crimp grip works best on small to medium sized holds. The open hand grip
is used for large, wide, and sloping holds. The open hand grip relys more on the
friction of the hand of the rock, while the crimp grip uses more finger
strength. Because of this, the open hand grip is a less harsh on the tendons.
The mantel involves pressing down on a shelf with the hand and the shoulder. A
foot often ends up next to the hand on the shelf. The mantel is used to get the
feet on top of an edge when there are no reachable handholds above it from where
the climber is below the edge.
Pockets can be great sometimes – if they are big enough. Small pockets can put a
lot of strain on your hand. Depending on the size, pockets can be used with the
whole hand, or just one finger.
A common grip for a vertically running hold is the pinch grip. Do the pinch grip
like it sounds – find the hold and pinch it!














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