| A guide to Vancouver Island's alpine climbing mecca |
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Ringing the Elk River valley in the northern end of Strathcona Park are a group of Vancouver Island’s highest and most impressive alpine peaks: King’s Peak, Elkhorn, Rambler Peak and Mt Colonel Foster. “The Colonel” is the fourth highest peak and undisputed alpine climbing mecca on the Island and is reached with relative ease by a trek up the Elk River Trail to Landslide Lake. The Lake comes by its name after an earthquake centred off Comox in 1946 shook loose a large section of the North Tower. The resulting landslide swept a wave of debris and lake water several kilometres down the Elk valley leaving scars that remain clearly visible to this day.
Ringing the Elk River valley in the northern end of Strathcona Park are a group of Vancouver Island’s highest and most impressive alpine peaks: King’s Peak, Elkhorn, Rambler Peak and Mt Colonel Foster. “The Colonel” is the fourth highest peak and undisputed alpine climbing mecca on the Island and is reached with relative ease by a trek up the Elk River Trail to Landslide Lake. The Lake comes by its name after an earthquake centred off Comox in 1946 shook loose a large section of the North Tower. The resulting landslide swept a wave of debris and lake water several kilometres down the Elk valley leaving scars that remain clearly visible to this day. Colonel Foster is named for William Washborough Foster, a Colonel in the Victoria regiment and noted mountaineer of his day. The mountain was visited by survey parties and numerous summit attempts throughout the 1900’s but it wasn’t until 1968 that Mike Walsh succeeded in reaching the main summit. Since then many fine routes have been established on the various aspects of the mountain with many many more waiting to be climbed.
Summit Elevation: 7,000 ft./2135m Approach: 4-6 hours to Landslide Lake via Elk River trail from Highway #28. To reach either the South or North col, traverse around Landslide Lake on south shore on a good beaten path to Iceberg Lake. To North Col, head directly R up moraine and through timber to slide basin and on to the alpine shoulder. To South Col, ascend snow gullies or low 5th class slabs depending on snow cover to South Glacier and South Col. The North Col can also be reached by striking directly up the forest from Landslide Lake but is very bushy! An alternative route preferable in late summer/fall to the South Col is to via Elk Pass and hike over satellite peak, descending an easy gully in to the South Col. Usual descents are completed by: continuing or backtracking along the summit traverse to either end, rappelling any number of lines down the west face, or taking the exposed but direct Snow Band Route with 1 or 2 raps SUMMER ROUTES
SC- South Summit via South Col & South Gullies **
SC- South Summit via South Col & South Gullies **
FA: Survey party 1936
A classic! Set the standard for alpine routes on the Island & is certainly the Colonel’s must-do-route. Start up a triangular rock formation bounded by gullies, in to lower basin of the Grand Central Coulior, 4th/low 5th class. Traverse right, out toward buttress crest (can be wet from snow melt in early season)5.8. Continue direct up buttress trending left near the top to reach the Main Summit, 4th class-5.7.
I-Into The Mystic ***
NORTH TOWER
SB- Snow Band Route: AI2 5.10 800m (lll) **
GC-Grand Central Coulior ***
NC- North East Couloir
ST-Summit Traverse ***
WB- West Central Buttress
D- Dirrettissima *** by Philip Stone wild isle magazine |
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